$35+
Dedicated removal of embedded pet hair from carpet, upholstery, and cargo areas — the part a normal vacuum pass will not solve.
Pet hair does not sit on top of carpet fibers, it weaves into them. A standard vacuum pass pulls the loose top layer and leaves the woven-in hair behind, which is why a car can look vacuumed and still shed hair onto your clothes a day later. This add-on treats hair as its own job with rubber-edged tools and brushes that agitate the pile and lift hair up where suction can take it.
We work section by section — driver and passenger carpet, seat bolsters and seams, the seat-back pockets, cargo floor, and the crease where the seat cushion meets the backrest, which is where most of the hair actually collects. Pricing starts at $25 and scales with how much hair there is, because a lightly shedding cat and a large dog that rides daily are very different amounts of work.
How we do it
- —Full vacuum pass first so we are only fighting embedded hair
- —Agitate carpet and upholstery with rubber tools and stiff brushes
- —Work seams, seat creases, bolsters, and cargo areas by hand
- —Repeat vacuum passes until fibers stop releasing hair
Worth adding when
- —Dogs or cats that ride regularly
- —Vehicles with cloth seats and cloth carpet
- —Cars being prepared for sale or trade-in
- —Anyone whose clothes keep picking up hair after a wash
Honest limits
- —Hair spun deep into worn or matted carpet may never come out completely.
- —Very heavy accumulation is quoted above the $35 starting price.
- —This is hair removal, not odor removal — pet smell is handled by odor elimination.
Time & pairing
- —Typically adds 30-90 minutes depending on how much hair is present.
- —Usually added to the Interior Deep Clean.
$60
Sanding and polishing of yellowed, hazed headlight lenses, then a protective topping so the clarity holds.
Headlight lenses are polycarbonate with a factory UV coating. Under Texas sun that coating breaks down, and the plastic underneath oxidizes into the familiar yellow haze. Haze scatters light, so the practical problem is not only that the car looks older — it is that less of your headlight output reaches the road at night.
Restoration is a mechanical process, not a wipe-on product. We wet-sand the lens through progressively finer grits to cut the oxidized layer off, then machine-polish back to clarity and apply a protective topping so fresh plastic is not left bare to UV. Priced at $60 for the pair.
How we do it
- —Mask surrounding paint and trim
- —Wet-sand through progressive grits to remove the oxidized layer
- —Machine-polish the lens back to clarity
- —Apply a protective topping to slow re-yellowing
Worth adding when
- —Yellow or cloudy lenses on vehicles parked outdoors
- —Night-driving visibility that has gradually gotten worse
- —Older daily drivers being cleaned up cosmetically
- —Pre-sale presentation
Honest limits
- —Cracked lenses, internal moisture, or condensation inside the housing cannot be fixed from the outside.
- —Haze that is inside the lens rather than on its surface will not sand out.
- —Restored lenses will eventually re-oxidize; the protective topping slows it, it does not stop it.
Time & pairing
- —Typically adds 45-60 minutes for the pair.
- —Usually added to the Exterior Detail + Clay Bar.
$50
Targeting the source of a lingering smell instead of covering it — soft surfaces treated, then the cabin neutralized.
Odor lives in whatever absorbed it: carpet padding, seat foam, headliner, and the cabin air path. Air fresheners only add a second smell on top of the first, which is why a car can smell like vanilla and smoke at the same time. This add-on works the other direction — remove or neutralize what is producing the odor.
We begin with the soft surfaces, because that is usually the reservoir: extraction on carpet and upholstery, attention to the seat crease and under-seat carpet, and a check for anything trapped under mats or in the spare-tire well. From there the cabin is treated to neutralize what remains rather than mask it. Smoke, milk, and pet odor are the three most common requests and also the most stubborn.
How we do it
- —Locate the source — spills, food, trapped moisture, pet accidents
- —Extract carpet, upholstery, and the affected padding
- —Address under-seat carpet, mats, and the cargo/spare-tire area
- —Neutralize the cabin so the remaining odor is not simply covered
Worth adding when
- —Smoke smell in a used vehicle
- —Spilled milk, food, or drinks that were never fully cleaned
- —Pet odor after accidents or wet-dog rides
- —Vehicles sitting with damp carpet or a musty smell
Honest limits
- —Long-term smoke saturation may not clear completely in one appointment.
- —Odor from a mechanical source — a coolant leak, mold in the HVAC evaporator, a failed cabin filter — needs a mechanic, not detailing.
- —If saturated padding cannot be reached without removing seats or carpet, some odor may return.
Time & pairing
- —Typically adds 45-90 minutes; severe cases may need a second visit.
- —Usually added to the Interior Deep Clean.
$35+
Gentle cleaning of leather and leatherette seating, then a conditioner that leaves a matte, non-slippery finish.
Modern automotive leather is coated, so the goal is not to soak oil into hide — it is to lift body oils, sunscreen, denim dye, and grit out of the grain and coating without stripping it. We clean with a pH-appropriate product and a soft brush that works the grain and perforations, focusing on the driver's bolster and seat-entry edge, which take almost all of the wear.
Conditioner goes on afterward and is leveled off so the finish is matte and grippy, not glossy and slick. A shiny seat looks treated for a day and then attracts dust; more importantly, a slippery driver's seat is genuinely annoying. Regular conditioning is mainly about keeping the coating supple so it resists the cracking that Texas heat accelerates.
How we do it
- —Vacuum seams, perforations, and the seat-to-console gap
- —Clean the grain with a pH-appropriate cleaner and soft brush
- —Wipe residue before it dries into the perforations
- —Apply and level conditioner to a matte, non-slippery finish
Worth adding when
- —Leather or leatherette seats showing body-oil shine
- —Driver's bolsters with denim dye transfer
- —Vehicles parked outdoors in summer heat
- —Maintenance between full details
Honest limits
- —Existing cracks, tears, and worn-through coating cannot be reversed by conditioning.
- —Heavy dye transfer may lighten rather than fully clear.
- —This is care and protection, not leather repair or re-dyeing.
Time & pairing
- —Typically adds 30-45 minutes for a full interior.
- —Usually added to the Interior Deep Clean.
$40
Cleaning and re-darkening of faded exterior plastic — bumper trim, mirror caps, cowls, and cladding.
Unpainted exterior plastic fades in a specific way: UV pulls the oils and pigment out of the surface, leaving a chalky gray-white cast. It shows up hardest on bumper inserts, mirror caps, the wiper cowl, roof rails, and wheel-arch cladding, and it makes an otherwise clean vehicle look older than it is. The fix starts with cleaning, because a dressing applied over chalk just sits on it and washes off at the next rain.
We deep-clean the trim to pull the oxidized residue out of the texture, then apply a trim restorer that darkens the plastic and leaves UV protection behind. The result is an even factory-style dark finish rather than a wet greasy shine — greasy dressings sling onto paint and streak down the panel the first time it rains.
How we do it
- —Deep-clean the trim to remove chalky oxidation and old dressing
- —Dry and mask adjacent paint where needed
- —Apply trim restorer evenly across the textured surface
- —Level and buff so nothing slings onto paint
Worth adding when
- —Gray, chalky bumper trim and mirror caps
- —SUVs and trucks with large cladding panels
- —Vehicles parked outdoors year-round
- —Anything being photographed for a sale listing
Honest limits
- —Severely degraded or cracked plastic can be improved but not made new.
- —Restoration is a renewable finish, not permanent — it needs reapplying periodically.
- —Painted trim and clear-coated plastics are treated as paint, not trim.
Time & pairing
- —Typically adds 30-45 minutes depending on how much trim the vehicle has.
- —Usually added to the Exterior Detail + Clay Bar.